Now that I am working on the aileron skins, I found it impractical to work on both ailerons concurrently, so I put the right spar and rib skeleton off to the side and began working just the left aileron.
Today I fitted and drilled the lower aileron inspection covers and doublers for the left aileron only. All went fine. Again, the right angle drill adapter came in handy. Might actually need to get a right angle dedicated drill. Not a huge fan of the threaded bit on the adapter. I think I'd like the more traditional chuck.
Next came the "rolling on" of the top skin to the spar flange and ribs. Following the instructions, I could not get enough even leverage across the top skin to roll it cleanly onto the top spar and ribs as they all sat on the cleco tips. After ever so slightly "oil canning" the leading edge skin, a light bulb went off. The best way to get some even leverage to match up the trailing edge joggles was to turn the aileron over and sit the top skin flat on the bench and use the weight and rigidity of the cleco'd skeleton and bottom skin to get the pressure on it I needed. Worked great! I have an ever-so-slight offset at the trailing edge but I can probably clean that up with a file or SB wheel.
Also today I developed a new (to me) trick to help line up the rivet lines in the top skin with the spar. It was easy to see whether my rivet line was under the skin holes or not. But if it wasn't, it was tough to tell whether the river line was fore or aft of the skin holes. So I took some red electrical tape and laid it on the forward side of the rivet line. Whenever I saw the red tape, I knew the spar was further aft than it should be. When I saw bare aluminum, the spar was too far forward. This technique worked out great for getting the spar straight and alleviating any potential for twist in the aileron. Good little trick. Worked just as I had hoped. I'll add that to the tips and tricks page!
I finished riveting the right aileron together after priming. Biggest challenge was rolling the skin around the nose ribs and getting it to sit tight against the lower spar. Fought with it for a little bit but finally got it there.
Learned it is best to wait on riveting the side and forward inspection hole nutplates until after riveting the doubler to the skin. Fortunately, I am using the Click Bond nutplates so this was easy to rectify on the first hole.
